Tuesday, February 27, 2007

Canon A540

Canon A540 Overview

The Canon A540 breaks the $300 mark with a 6.0-megapixel sensor, a 4x optical zoom lens, a broadcast quality Movie mode and full manual control. It's an impressive offering for such a low price.

One up from the low end of the camera models announced by Canon prior to the Spring 2006 PMA show, the PowerShot A540 comes in just above the A530 model. The extra money you'll spend on the Canon A540 over its lower-end sibling will likely be well-spent though. While keeping the same 4x zoom lens (35-140mm equivalent) used across much of the PowerShot A-series, the Canon A540 boosts resolution to six megapixels and increases the maximum movie frame rate to a full 30 frames/second, even at 640x480 resolution.

The Canon A540 also boosts performance in some other areas as well, sporting a huge 2.5" rear-panel LCD in addition to its real-image optical viewfinder, and adding aperture-priority and shutter-priority exposure modes, welcome options for more sophisticated users. ISO light-sensitivity ranges from 80 to 800. Other exposure modes include fully automatic and fully manual, plus a wide range of scene modes in between, and a "My Colors" menu that offers special effects such as Vivid and Neutral, Light or Dark skin, and Custom color adjustments. An Underwater scene mode even adjusts color balance and exposure for use with an optional underwater housing.

The Canon A540 also offers a range of metering modes, including evaluative, center-weighted, and even spot metering. In its continuous shooting mode, the Canon A540 is rated at 2.3 frames/second, very good speed for a modestly-priced camera.

Following a growing trend, the Canon A540 stores its images on SD memory cards, which is rapidly becoming the dominant memory card format for digital cameras. A USB 2.0 High-Speed computer connection provides for speedy downloads, fast enough that most users will find no need for a separate card reader.

At the end of the day, the Canon A540 should be a very strong-selling model in the popular PowerShot line, providing not only dead-easy use for beginners (in full-auto mode), but a complete complement of advanced exposure and metering modes for the more experienced shooter. This is a camera that offers novice photographers plenty of capability to grow into, and should make a great choice for families or couples with widely varying levels of photo expertise.

Canon A540 User Report

There are two ways to look at the A540: as an A700 with a 4x zoom, or as an underwater PowerShot. It isn't quite identical to the A700, but it's a near twin, except for the zoom. And at just under $300, salty tears won't dehydrate you if the optional $240 WP-DC2 underwater housing fails. More importantly, its underwater white balance and Scene mode will be welcome aids below the surface.

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The A540
Lens fully extended

If the underwater virtues of the A540 interest you, take a look at Canon's excellent Underwater Photography Guide (http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/uwphoto/index-e.html). In 17 chapters, it covers everything you need to know.

It's about the same size as the A700 and enjoys the same AA battery power supply, heft, and feel we so much enjoyed. The retro housing may not attract much envy, but the photos will. We particularly enjoyed how it handled macro shots of our flowers. Not any easy subject.

Highlights. Canon's A-Series digicams all use AA batteries, among which we recommend NiMH rechargeables, now available with as much as 2700 mAh (but even 1600s would do nicely). The newest A-Series digicams have reduced the battery requirement to just two, so a set of four means you'll always have a fresh set ready to go. Even with just two, however, we never ran out of gas during a shoot with the Canon A540.

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The Battery Compartment. AAs tucked next to the little clock battery drawer with the SD card slot at the top

Canon divides the A540's mode dial (as it does several other models) into three sections or "zones." The familiar Green Auto setting is its own section for those occasions where you just want to set it and forget it. Canon calls its Scene mode options the "Image Zone." The third zone is the "Creative Zone," which consists of Programmed Auto, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and full Manual control. It was the Creative Zone that impressed us at this price level.


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The Zones. Creative, Auto and Image zones on Mode dial, conveniently recessed Power button and large Shutter button with a Zoom collar
Canon doesn't always mean Manual when it says Manual (on some cameras offering control over a few more exposure factors, like white balance, than Auto offers). But in the Canon A540's case, it means it. You can control the shutter from 15 to 1/2000 second (depending on aperture) and the aperture from f2.6 to f8.0 (depending on focal length).

I find that important for two reasons. The first is that any Auto mode occasionally disappoints. The solution to those disappointments is often taking some small aspect of control back from the camera. The A540 is happy to oblige. Secondly, though, having PASM on your camera means you can grow with it. You can read about some technique and actually try it out with this camera. You can't say that about every $350 digicam out there.

It's also becoming unusual to find an optical viewfinder on a digicam at this price level. The 2.5-inch LCD is a blessing and will be your preferred tool for composing your images, but in bright sun there's nothing like an optical viewfinder. On subcompact cameras with large LCDs, optical viewfinders are a dying breed. So we're glad to see it survive on the Canon A540.

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The Optical VF. Note how the eyepiece bezel isn't directly behind the viewfinder's lens bezel. But at least there is an optical viewfinder.

Design. Even a pair of AA batteries take up more space than one of those proprietary lithium-ion rechargeables that are hardly bigger than a CompactFlash card. But Canon has used the space intelligently, turning it into a hand grip with most of the A540's weight in the grip. That makes it easier to handhold in low light, giving it a little more resistence when you press the shutter.


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Controls
All within reach

I was able to shoot with the Canon A540 one-handed, even when I had to change EV or turn off the flash, but it's a bit easier to do that with two hands, the left supporting the camera briefly while you adjust your settings.

Still, having all the buttons and dials within easy reach of your right hand, which is always on the camera anyway, is a welcome touch.

Performance. I'm a bit more forgiving of slow shutter speeds and power up times than I should be because I'm saddled with old equipment that has slowed my reflexes significantly (at least that's the way I see it). But some digicams can still annoy me by taking a very long time to start up or to snap the shutter when I press the Shutter button.


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Wide Mode. Don't try this on your HDTV, but I do enjoy composing with Canon's Widescreen mode.

But the Canon A540 was always ready when I was. I did cycle the power an awful lot (just checking Menu options during the review, for example, which can really test my patience). But the A540 was responsive. It fired right back up quickly.

The shutter seemed quite responsive, too. I habitually half-press the shutter button anyway, so it should have been responsive. But half-pressing is something I do just to check focus and exposure options, too. It's a very good habit.


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Contrast. Pretty extreme shot, but the A5400 held it well
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Color. The A540 also made those usually difficult flower shots easy.

The A540 offers an ISO 800 setting that seems to be a new trend in digicam design. Sony has bumped the ISO ceiling up to 1000 in this year's Cyber-shots, obliterating the old 400 limit. This can be something of a mixed bag, as many have pointed out. The price of higher sensitivity is more noise. In fact, with more megapixels crammed onto the tiny sensor surface, even ISO 400 exhibits more noise than it did in the good old days when a 3-Mp sensor was hot stuff.

But the alternative, shooting at ISO 200 or below, guarantees blurry images from camera shake. So I'll take the noise. I know what to do with it: reduce it. Even Photoshop CS2's default Noise Reduction filter does a very nice job of making the noise in an A540's ISO 800 shot look no worse than that in an ISO 200 shot.


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ISO 800 Noise
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Noise Reduced. Default settings of Photoshop CS2 Noise Reduction filter did the trick.

My point is that you can't do anything about a blurry shot in your image editing software, but you can do something about noise. Sure, it would be nice to be able to shoot at ISO 800 and not have to edit the shot later -- but at least you have the shot to edit.

I was also happy to see a broadcast quality Movie mode on the Canon A540. That's 30 frames per second at 640x480-pixel resolution. Not all Movie modes are the same these days, with some digicams offering no more than 20 fps at VGA resolution. Canon, to its credit, is not taking any of the fun out of one of the biggest digicam advantages. You can zoom with sound, too (and not pick up much motor noise). Nicely done.

The only disappointment with Movie mode is that is doesn't tap into the 16:9 wide mode available in still recording modes. I really enjoy framing images in Widescreen mode. It's a fresh perspective. You will need the LCD to see the crop, though, because the Canon A540's optical viewfinder doesn't give you a clue.


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PictBridge Printing. Plug in a USB cable and the A540 becomes a print kiosk.

Finally, let me point out once again the benefit of a PictBridge-compatible digicam. The A540 needs only a USB cable to become a printing kiosk when connected to any PictBridge printer. That means you can leave a set of prints behind when you take shots at a party or just quickly get an index of your latest shoot without bothering to fire up the computer. It's a terrific convenience with the full range of output options, so you really don't give up much.

If you don't need the 6x optical zoom of the A700, the A540 will save you a few bucks while delivering the rest of the goods. Even more, it adds a couple of underwater tricks that will be appreciated if you add Canon's underwater housing to your cart (WP-DC2).

Monday, February 26, 2007

Canon EOS 400D

Canon EOS 400D Digital Rebel XTi Introduction

Though it was still the hottest selling digital SLR on the market, the Canon Digital Rebel XT was due for an upgrade, and right on the expected 18 month schedule comes the EOS Digital Rebel XTi (called the EOS 400D overseas). The new Rebel XTi has a 10.1 megapixel sensor, a 2.5 inch LCD screen, and a new dust cleaning system; and like its EOS brothers, the Rebel XTi will work with a vast system of over 50 lenses and a wide array of accessories. It borrows a lot of other recent innovations from recent EOS cameras, including PictBridge printing enhancements, Picture Styles mode settings, and it and comes in at $100 less than its predecessor. More importantly, the Rebel XT maintains the high image quality we've come to expect from Canon's SLRs, from the Rebels to the 1D-series.

Improvements include:

  • 10.1 megapixel sensor
  • EOS Integrated Cleaning System
  • 2.5 inch, 230,000 pixel LCD with 160 degree viewing angle
  • Improved interface
  • Better grip
  • Greater buffer depth of 27 Large/Fine JPEGs or 10 RAW frames
  • Folders that will hold up to 9,999 images
  • Picture Style settings for quick color mode changes
  • More precise 9-point AF system
  • Faster image processing
  • Improved Print/Share functions
  • Photo editing functions plus index print options
  • Custom auto-rotation

For a detailed report prepared on the day of the Rebel XTi's announcement, click on the Improvements tab above.

Canon Rebel XTi User Report

by Shawn Barnett
Posted: 09/01/2006
Updated: 11/30/2006

Similar in weight and size, much of the user experience with the Canon Rebel XTi is like the Rebel XT. They're both small digital SLRs with good heft and a solid feel. But there's more to like about the XTi, from the finish to the fit to the interface.

We were fortunate to see both the black and silver models this time around. I'm not fond of the silver on either the Rebel XT or XTi, though I didn't much mind the silver on the original Digital Rebel. Both black and silver finishes have been changed from the XT. The black finish is smoother and more of a satin black. It gives an impression of painted metal rather than bare plastic, as the Rebel XT's finish did. The XT tended to collect what looked like scratches on its surface, but they were very often fingernail dust, abraded from my nails when they rubbed against the paint. Most conspicuous were the marks between the grip and lens, where my fingers are still too often pinched as I wrap my hand around the grip. It was just rough, tough paint they used on the XT's body. The paint on the Rebel XTi is smoother and makes the camera look metal rather than plastic.

The silver paint, which I think they call "chrome" is a brighter silver, also more metallic looking. It looks garish to my eye, but I'm sure many will like it. Like Canon's legendary white lenses, the silver body should tend to get a little less hot in direct sunlight.


Chrome and black: Though some black accents remain on the Chrome version, many of them have been changed to a dark gray. On the Black version, all buttons are now black, including the shutter and nav buttons, to give the black Rebel XTi a more professional look.


Improved grip. While I like the slight size increase in the grip, it's still not enough. The top deck is nearly the same, except for the addition of the green LED to indicate power status.

Grip. I'd have preferred a more dramatic increase in grip size, but I'm glad for the improvements that were made. For his part, Dave expressed vehement hatred of the Rebel XT's grip, but he was more pleased than I was with the subtle changes we both perceived in the XTi's grip. The changes aren't easily seen; it's more the hand that notices a change. First, there's more of a coarse texture to the grip surface. It also appears that they rounded the front slightly, where your two middle fingers rest, giving perhaps a millimeter or two of rise; then they re-tapered the grip's shape to have slightly more fullness left to right, with just a little more material rounding out toward the right. What I don't like is that where the Rebel XT's grip met the camera body (the side toward the lens) at a stronger right angle, the Rebel XTi's grip is more rounded, preventing me from wedging my fingertips into the corner. Pentax recently made the opposite change in their redesign of the *istDL to the K100D, and I prefer it. My standard form of carry is either up by the chest holding the lens in my right or left hand, or down to the side with my hand around the grip. I use straps only very occasionally, and I hate them the whole time, so a camera's grip is very important to me.

The thumb grip is better. Rather than a single bulge in the upper right corner, there's a nice tapering curve that supports the heel of your thumb as well as a rubber pad for your thumb to grip. Note also the black navigation buttons and more practical knurl on the mode dial.

Overall, I'd say the Rebel XTi's grip is improved. I still have to curl my pinky finger under the battery compartment, because the grip isn't tall enough. Even my wife, who liked the XT's grip, wasn't as enthusiastic this time. She liked how light the camera was, but not the inside of the grip, nor that her pinkie finger had to curl around the bottom to allow her index finger enough room to rest on the shutter. The 30D grip felt more sturdy to her. "I think I'd get tired holding the XTi all day," she said. It's probably a non-issue if you use a camera strap, though, as most do.

Attaching the BG-E3 battery grip extends the length of the gripping surface, making a world of difference. Even without the BG-E3, the front grip is enhanced by an improvement in the thumb grip on the back. Both the Rebel XT and the 30D have a single large bulge in the top right corner that gives a decent counter to the front grip. The Rebel XTi adds a smooth curving ridge that runs down from this bulge, adding extra support and some sense of comfort. There's also a soft rubber pad right where the thumb needs it most, making for extra traction. Despite my quibbles, the combination of minor enhancements does make for a more secure and comfortable hold so you can focus on getting a great shot.

Smaller buttons. They're smaller, round again, and the Print/Share button has been added. Menu and INFO buttons have been swapped too, and INFO is now called DISP, because it also turns off the Status Display. As one used to shooting with a 20D and 30D, this move is a bit distracting.

The Rebel XTi's larger screen has dictated a few changes to buttons, with the five left buttons shrinking again to small round buttons instead of the larger reverse-D shaped buttons of the Rebel XT. These new buttons have a soft, but detectable click. Since there's no longer a monochrome status display, the LCD illumination button is gone.

Upper left of the Rebel XTi's 2.5 inch LCD is something that surprisingly wasn't included on the Rebel XT: the now almost ubiquitous Print/Share button. First introduced on Canon's digicams, the first SLR to receive this feature was the over-$3,000 Canon EOS 5D. The button glows blue when connected to a compatible printer or computer via a USB connection, meaning you can begin printing or transferring images right away. It took a little time for my computer (an iMac G5) to wake up and get all the pieces in place for the first time, but after that it worked just fine, and transferred images very quickly via the USB 2.0 connection.

Screen dimmer. An IR emitter and sensor shuts the Status display off.

Just above the LCD and below the optical viewfinder are the IR emitter and sensor that detect the presence of your eye or other object (such as your stomach if you have the camera on a strap). This tells the camera that the monitor no longer needs to be on, and prevents glare from interfering with the light coming through the viewfinder. It does not start up the autofocus system as we've seen on the Sony A100; Canon has opted to leave that job to the shutter button. The advantage to that decision is that while you move the camera around, you won't be turning the AF system off and on repeatedly, which can wear on the battery.

External tweaks. There are other changes that are mostly cosmetic, like the larger Canon logo on the front of the camera, and a slightly redesigned mode dial on top. The latter looks more machined on top and has a slightly more useful knurl around the outside. The shutter button is also black instead of silver on the black model, to more closely resemble the rest of the black body EOS models. The five-way navigator buttons on the back are also black on the black body. The corresponding items on the silver body are now silver, and many of the accents (the mode dial and power switch, the rubber thumb rest, the left side panel and its rubber door, and the lens release button) are dark gray.

The design of the Rebel XTi is very similar to the XT, but its lines are slightly more organic, looking more mature and sturdy. Those few enhancements noted above, along with the better paint make the Rebel XTi look more professional.

Still CF. Existing Canon EOS owners can sigh with relief that their existing collection of cards will still work in the Rebel XTi.

Staying standard. With most other recent consumer SLRs switching to SD cards, I fully expected Canon to follow suit by switching to SD in the Rebel XTi, but I was pleased to see a nice big CF door in place. It appears nearly identical to the Rebel XT; perhaps a little longer due to the new rear grip addition, but functionally the same. In general, you're still able to buy larger cards for CompactFlash because the card format is larger and can fit more chips for less money. I'd prefer the choice of both, for users with different needs, but that adds money to the bottom line; and remains a feature of the far more expensive Canon 1D-series.

Firing it up. Wrapping my hand around the improved grip, the hold is sturdier. I can use my index finger to reach back across the top deck and flip the camera on. It's a little less comfortable than on the Olympus E-500, but still quite possible. The green lamp on top flashes to life, as does the LCD on the back. The gray status display comes on, showing the current settings. In the lower right corner, a little rectangle appears with animated sparkles for a second, then the estimated number of frames available on the card appears (when you turn the camera off, a black screen comes up with the same animated sparkles as shown at right). I can bypass the cleaning process if I'm in a hurry by half-pressing the shutter button; otherwise, it takes about a second to complete the cleaning process. I noticed no sound while cleaning initially, but since I've had an opportunity to try it in a quieter room, I do hear a series of pulses, then a high-pitched ringing sound. It's not really distracting, though, and you have to listen for it. (For more on Canon's impressive new sensor cleaning and dust reduction system, see our expanded explanation under the Optics tab.)

Simple, informative. The new Status Display is perhaps not as pretty as others we've seen, but it's informative and minimalist. Note also the three-stage battery icon.

Bigger LCD. The Canon Rebel XTi joins the lion's share of current digital SLRs with its larger, brighter 2.5 inch LCD with 230,000 pixels. Its viewing angle is 160 degrees, to help you show off your images to more people than the XT allowed. Like many other consumer SLRs, the Rebel XTi's color LCD stays on to serve as status display. It uses more battery, but the new Status Display is a lot better than the old monochrome LCD, mostly because there's more room to display the camera's many potential settings. On the XT, you had to look through the viewfinder to set the AF point, or use the cryptic number display on the monochrome LCD; but with the XTi, you need only press the AF point selector button, look at the back of the LCD -- or through the viewfinder -- and use the four-way nav buttons to select your AF points. At rest, you can double check the setting just by glancing at the Status Display again, where it is permanently displayed.

Other EOS cameras with a top Status Display require you to press a button, tilt the camera toward you, and turn the dial to make your changes (or look through the viewfinder). On both the old XT and the new XTi, all the buttons are on the back with the display, and most items can be changed with the Five-way Navigation buttons. The simple, clean gray and purple screens that come up to change common items like ISO and AF Mode are unimpressive at first, but once you use them a few times, the advantage of such a minimalist approach is clear, because all you see is what you're after.

If you want to change the ISO, all you see are options for ISO, no menus, no icons to tell you how to navigate from here, just the words and numbers necessary. Use the arrow buttons to select among them, or the Main dial, and either press the Set button in the middle of the four arrows, or press the shutter button to go back to capture mode. The chosen item is selected, and shows up on the Status Display, regardless whether you press the Set button. Note that here you can scroll upward through the list by pressing the up arrow repeatedly, or use any of the other arrow keys to move around in the list: moving from ISO 100 to 800, for example, rather than scrolling through the others.



I especially appreciated having the Picture Style menu so close at hand. A press of the Set button brings it up, and you can make changes very quickly. If shooting in Standard mode, all settings are just four button presses away. I was a little disappointed, however, to find that unlike in the ISO menu, you cannot move from Standard to Monochrome by pressing on the right arrow. You have to scroll up or down, or roll the Main dial through all the intervening items to get where you want. As I say, it's only four or five moves in either direction to get to Monochrome, but it's a significant difference in how this menu works, when it looks just like the ISO menu above.

The battery icon has been improved a little, adding an additional stage to the formerly inadequate 2-stage battery icon of other EOS cameras. You could say it was a three stage icon, but flashing an empty battery outline to indicate empty is too little too late. It's good to have a little more advance warning with an additional bar.

Most valuable. Here's my top choice for the greatest improvement in the Rebel XTi: the AF sensor borrowed from the 30D.

New AF module. It doesn't stand out quite as much as the higher resolution and the anti-dust system, but the Rebel XTi's AF sensor upgrade is significant, because it's the same sensor used in the 20D and 30D. Shortly after completing the Rebel XT review, I spent a lot of time with it, comparing it to the Canon EOS 20D in all kinds of shooting situations. It became clear that the 20D was significantly faster in low light than the XT or the original Digital Rebel. It wasn't just the 9-points of the 20D vs the 7-points of the XT, it was just far better at analyzing a scene and deciding where to focus.

As a torture test, I grabbed both cameras and asked my son to run around in a lamp-lit room while I tried to snap his picture. The XT hardly got a shot off, compared to the 20D which more often than not locked and fired time after time. I've done the same test with other digital SLRs, and the Rebel XT beats them--but the 20D was even better. My tests with the shipping version indicate that the Rebel XTi is roughly equal to the 30D in low light.

Anyone looking at a digital SLR to take pictures of the kids at play or sport needs to know how important good low-light AF performance is to a good experience, since a good many sports are done indoors in low light, or at night, and the players are moving at high speed. Though it's still very difficult to get good sports shots with any camera, you're more likely to get something good if you start with a camera like the Canon Rebel XTi.

The Rebel XTi's viewfinder does not have the flashing red boxes that the 30D does; instead it has small red dots that light up in the middle of the boxes. Depending on the background, sometimes one is better than another, but I think both of these Canon AF indicators are easier to see in more lighting situations than most other solutions on the market.

Viewfinder. Okay, so now I've turned the Rebel XTi on and checked the settings. Now I hold it up to my eye and the IR sensor turns off the display. I haven't tested it yet, but apparently sunglasses could keep the sensor from seeing its signal returned. Of course, glare from the sensor is unlikely to bother you much if you're in light bright enough that you're wearing sunglasses. According to the remarkably complete white paper on the Rebel XTi, some fluorescent lamps could also turn off the monitor if placed too close to the source. So don't do that.

What you see & don't. You'll see everything but the grid shown here when you look through the viewfinder. The grid shows a layout of the Rebel XTi's 30 metering zones and does not (unfortunately) appear.

Peering through the viewfinder, it's a little disappointing that the magnification hasn't been improved as we've seen on the Nikon D200 and D80. Greater magnification is just more comfortable, and easier to verify focus. That hasn't stopped me from getting great shots with the existing magnification, however, so take it for what it's worth. AF points are arrayed in a diamond pattern, which Canon says helps improve subject tracking. My son has demonstrated that. The LED numbers for Shutter Speed and Aperture seem a little larger, and there are two new icons, a Flash Exposure lock indicator and a White Balance adjustment indicator. With my glasses on, the viewfinder picture is not quite complete, with vignetting around the corners. I have to press my glasses close to my face and up against the rubber guard to see the full frame.

If I'm in manual mode, I can adjust Shutter speed with the Main dial behind the shutter button, and press the Av button to adjust aperture, all without taking my eye from the viewfinder. The little arrow beneath the exposure level indicator responds to show levels like an old match needle. Pretty simple, and a very common method employed on this range of digital SLRs. This one puts my thumb right up against my cheekbone, but it's not bad. Slightly higher-end cameras have two wheels to control both variables in manual mode, but these lower-end cameras save a little on the bill of materials by assuming that most users will use one of the full- or semi-automatic modes.

Squeeze. With everything set, I half-press the shutter and the Rebel XTi tells me which AF points it's selected. If I don't like the selection, I can press again, and it will very often choose another set of points. This actually works very well most of the time, but when I'm doing important work, or facing an odd lighting situation, I switch to the center AF point on almost every camera. If I'm feeling lazy, I just keep hitting that shutter button until I'm satisfied.

Then I slowly squeeze the shutter button all the way down. The shutter sound is pretty well identical to the Rebel XT. A snap with a winding noise. It's not film that's being wound (obviously), just the shutter spring being reset by a small motor. Luke (our test wizard here at Imaging Resource) thinks I'm nuts, but I still suspect that they chose this winding motor on purpose, because that's what people expect SLRs to sound like (ever notice in the movies that even the smallest point and shoot camera sounds like it has a big professional motor drive?). The original Digital Rebel and EOS 20D didn't make this sound--at least not loudly--nor did the EOS 1D, but the Rebel XT and 1D Mark II certainly made quite the whirring sound. The XTi still has it.

When in AI Servo autofocus mode, the Rebel XTi doesn't need to lock focus like the XT and 20D did before the shutter will fire. Just press it all the way and it will capture whatever it sees. Another feature that appeared on the 30D is that the shutter button no longer needs to be released completely to make a follow-up shot. With the 20D and Rebel XT, you had to release the shutter button completely and the camera went through another AF cycle before the shutter could be released again. With the XTi, you can keep shooting more rapidly if you're satisfied that the focus is just fine. You just release the shutter halfway rather than all the way, and press again to capture subtle nuances in a scene.

Playback's enriched. A few enhancements to the Canon Rebel XTi and EOS 30D are good enough that they're worth the upgrade from the perfectly decent Rebel XT and EOS 20D models. One is a special auto-rotation mode. I hate auto rotation. You have this big rectangular screen that matches the orientation of the sensor, and you're going to rotate the image on the camera so that it's smaller and harder to see? I'd rather just turn the camera; after all, it wasn't hard to turn the camera when I captured the vertical shot, so I can easily do it again to view it. On the other hand, if I've taken a lot of shots, hand-rotating the vertical ones when I copy them to a computer is a bit of a pain. The Rebel XTi will let you have the best of both. Auto rotate can either rotate the images on the camera and the computer, or leave them as captured on the camera and rotate them on the computer. That time savings alone is worth the upgrade if you take enough pictures.

It's important to note that the new Auto Rotation works well if you use Canon's software, but many applications can get confused and rotate the image again. For my own sanity, I've opted to leave Auto Rotation off when I shoot with the Rebel XTi.

Another feature to come over from the 30D and higher cameras is the option of displaying either luminance or RGB histograms. The latter can often reveal an error in white balance if all three colors do not seem to be balanced across the histogram's range.

Finally, because the Rebel XTi's display is on while the camera's on, the name of the INFO button has been changed to DISP, for Display. The difference is that INFO regulated the amount of information that showed up primarily in playback mode, but the Display button can also turn the Status Display off to save battery when you still want to keep the camera's power switch on and the camera ready.

Print/Share button. The ability to print out a contact sheet, complete with mock film edges, directly from the camera will sell a lot of portable printers and PictBridge printers in general. When it's important, I prefer to print from within Photoshop, but sometimes it's nice to just plug into a PictBridge printer and toss out a few 4x6s. Among the possible in-camera improvements that you can apply before printing is the all-important red-eye reduction.

The XTi offers an expanded feature set that matches or exceeds the capabilities of the 30D. Here's a list of the printing capabilities added since the Rebel XT:

  • 35-image "contact sheet" index printing
  • Single-image prints with EXIF shooting information
  • 20 image contact sheets with EXIF data
  • Red-eye reduction function
  • Face brightening correction function
  • Additional supported paper sizes (4 x 8", 10 x 12", 8 x 10", 14 x 17")
  • Improved printing effects (Natural, Natural M, B/W, Cool Tone, and Warm Tone added)
  • Adjustment of printing parameters
  • Addition of supported paper (Fine Art, Photo Rag, Super Photo paper)

Improved buffer depth. The Rebel XTi can also shoot more pictures than its predecessor in continuous mode. I picked a simple photograph hanging on a beige wall and managed to fire off 34 shots in Large Fine JPEG mode. That's more than they're stating, and we're pretty sure we have a target or two that could make the Rebel XTi capture fewer than the 27 Canon-estimated shots before the buffer is filled. But they're rightly quoting an average, since the size of a JPEG shot can vary widely based on the relative compressibility of the subject. Since RAW files are also losslessly compressed, their sizes vary too, but it seems to stick more closely to 10 frames to fill the buffer in my informal shooting (our test results show it at between 9 and 12 frames).

Battery. The XTi's battery is the same as the XT's, the NB-2LH, but because of the larger display, its function as a Status display, and the new self-cleaning system, battery life is reduced. You can expect 500 images at room temperature (without flash) and 360 shots with 50% flash usage. At freezing temperatures, that expectation goes down to a still-respectable 370 and 280 shots without and with flash.

Competition. The Rebel XTi's obvious competition is the Canon 30D, the Nikon D80, and the Nikon D40. Sure, the Olympus E-500, Sony A100, and Pentax K100D are also contenders, but those comparisons are for a separate article. Since many XTi shoppers will be comparing the camera to the Nikon D40, Nikon D80, and Canon EOS 30D, I've snapped some images of the XTi next to all three so you can get an idea of the size differences. For the record, I do prefer the D80 and 30D grips, but that might not be a huge consideration for you if you plan to use a camera strap to carry the camera.

Size comparisons: Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi vs Nikon D80


Quite small: While the Nikon D80 is quite a bit smaller than its predecessor, the Nikon D70, the Canon Rebel XTi is smaller still.

Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi vs Canon EOS 30D


Even smaller: The difference becomes more dramatic when the Rebel XTi is compared with its big brother, the Canon EOS 30D. You can see the significant difference in grip size in both the front and top shots on both the D80 in the photos above and in the 30D here.

Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi vs Nikon D40


Turning tables: The 10 megapixel Canon Rebel XTi now looks large next to the new 6 megapixel Nikon D40. Both are quite comparable in the hand, however, with the D40 offering a little more room for all four fingers on the grip.

First Test Shots! September 8, 2006, 12:33 am. We can finally post some test shots for the Canon Digital Rebel XTi. We ran it through our full suite of new test targets, which tells a pretty good story about this new 10.1 megapixel camera's capabilities. The lens, however, is not really equal to the high resolution of this camera, so tonight I took some indoor gallery shots with the Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8, a very sharp lens. I wasn't able to journey outdoors due to the bad weather today, but hopefully tomorrow will offer better light, and I'll be able to post quite a few more. For now, here are a few shots of my personal little models, who are very good sports when dad has to test a new camera. To see all the full set of Multi Target and Still Life shots in addition to these three, click on the Samples tab and select Thumbnails (or click here). To get the RAW versions, you'll need to click on the links below. Beware: they are between 11 and 13 megabytes each.

Prime lens test. Here are three shots, straight out of the camera with the EF-S 60mm f/2.8. Click on the images above to for the full res version. These should tell you a lot about what the Rebel XTi can do with a nice sharp lens. You can also download the CR2 (RAW) files for these shots below. Unfortunately, you may not be able to open them without the new version of Digital Photo Pro v 2.2.0.1 that comes with the new Rebel XTi. The update does not appear to be available yet on the Canon site. (I apologize for the rudimentary lighting setup; it's just a makeshift backdrop and lighting arrangement in the basement for now, used mostly in emergencies like this.)
NOTE: The Safari browser cannot download the CR2 files for some reason; please use Firefox or another browser.
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More images posted. September 8, 2006, 3:14 pm; updated September 11. The weather did cooperate, and I managed to get a few decent gallery shots around a nearby town today. I plan to head out for more, mostly because I've been dissatisfied with the 18-55mm kit lens that Canon sent along. It's not a new lens that came with the body, but a well-used one. The first rack of Multi Target and Still Life shots were dramatically soft in the corners, far more than I remember from other Digital Rebel cameras. It could be the higher-res sensor showing the insufficiency of the lens, but this looks worse to me. The galleries I shot show this quite dramatically around the edges, and chromatic aberration is nasty even toward the middle. The 60mm shots I took last night and today are so much better that I need to grab the other 18-55mm we have around here, which we used to test the Rebel XT way back and test that.

Meanwhile, we've reshot the full target set of Still Life images with the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro. Some readers have pointed out that we shot the Nikon D80 with the Nikon 105mm f/2.8 rather than its 18-135mm kit lens, which is a good point. We'll be shooting both with the kit lens and with a benchmark lens if it's available.

Finally, for those comparing the Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi to the Nikon D80, it had been brought to our attention that we shot the ISO series of the Still Life with the Nikon D80 at high contrast. However, on closer inspection, and after a reshoot of the camera, it has become clear that the D80 was set to Auto Contrast. Since both the D80 and the Rebel XTi are consumer cameras, we elect to leave it at that. You can see the results of the ISO 100 shots for analysis of contrast and compare it to the ISO 1,600 version to satisfy yourself about how much contrast might influence the image. We want to leave it to the D80 to decide how to set the contrast, since that's what most users will do.

Canon Rebel XTi Nikon D80
Both ISO 1,600 images show some noise in the shadows, and some softening due to anti-noise processing. Though the Rebel XTi images seem to hold a bit more detail, they suffer from more chroma noise (random colors) than you see in the Nikon image. You can see these effects in the top two images, especially in the shadows in the background. However, you can see a watercolor effect, or smudging in the D80 images, in both the edges of the bottle, the background shadow, and especially in the peppers in the oil jar on the bottom images. Also, the fine lines of the label in the top image are far blurrier on the D80 image. But we are talking about ISO 1,600 here, and both cameras do very well.

Some may prefer Canon's approach to noise, because they can eliminate the blotchy chroma noise with some of the excellent noise fixing programs on the market. Some will prefer Nikon's approach, which just takes care of the noise and delivers more even color tones, despite the slight watercolor effect. Most won't notice a difference when the images are printed.

All of the artifacts I mention in both images are visible from about a foot away in 13x19 inch printed images, but not from arm's length; which is the closest most people get to such images. The XTi's somewhat softer images are better able to handle unsharp mask than are the noticably sharper D80 images, where unsharp mask enhances many of the smudgy artifacts.

It's clear that there are differences in the way the Canon XTi and the Nikon D80 deal with noise at ISO 1,600, but most impressive is that they both handle the situation very well. The 13x19 inch images we printed are surprisingly good. I think we can call the images from either camera unprecedented.

My experience with the Rebel XTi has been positive. It offers more of what you'd seek from a higher-end camera like the Canon EOS 30D at a much lower price. It's also smaller and easier to bring along, which is no small consideration when you want quality pictures on vacation. It can't quite reach to the EOS 30D's ISO 3,200 mode (it's limited to ISO 1,600), nor does it have the benefit of 1/8,000 second shutter speed (it's limited to 1/4,000). But it has something no other EOS has: automatic dust removal and abatement technology, plus a way to digitally subtract dust when a more thorough manual cleaning isn't possible. This important technology will doubtless make it into other EOS cameras, but for now the XTi is the only self-dusting digital SLR available from Canon.

The Canon Digital Rebel XTi is an excellent take-anywhere all-purpose digital SLR, that can serve as a second camera for owners of Rebel XT, 20D, 30D, and 5D cameras who want to keep a second body with a different focal length strapped around their neck. I think serious photographers would do better with an EOS 30D for its stronger build and greater manual adaptability, but for just about everyone else, the Rebel XTi offers everything you need and more.

Sunday, February 25, 2007

Nikon D80

Nikon D80 User Report

The new Nikon D80's combination of high-end features and its 18-135mm DX kit lens make a killer photographic tool for the amateur and intermediate photographer who can't afford or justify the extra cost of the Nikon D200.

While it is very similar to its predecessor, the Nikon D70s, and sports the higher 10.2 megapixel resolution of the D200, the Nikon D80 is replete with new features and advances in overall quality that make it a great upgrade for D50 and D70 owners, plus a compelling "other choice" for those who've been looking at (or waiting for) a Nikon D200. Finally, because its controls are so similar to the D2X and D200, pro photographers may want to pick up a D80 as a second or third body to take along instead of their heavier pro cameras.

Just right. While the lens that comes with the D80 is a little longer than the D70's, the overall package has trimmed down well, fitting a lot of camera into a small package.

Feel. Nikon's original camera for this prosumer category, the D70, was my personal benchmark for superb balance in an SLR. It had just the right weight distribution, even after attaching a lens. Most of the weight rested in the grip, and the camera didn't tend to twist away as do some other digital SLRs. That has been maintained, with the exception that the camera feels more dense in the middle, with less of a hollow feel to the body. Instead, it's a tighter, more solid package. I suspect this is due to how Nikon trimmed its outer dimensions as well as the addition of an actual pentaprism in substitution for the D70's pentamirror arrangement. Certainly the LCD also weighs a little more, but overall the camera has lost weight, coming in at 20.6 ounces (585 grams sans battery and card; based on pre-release information) versus the D70's 21.1 ounces (600 grams).

Though it's changed somewhat, the grip of the D80 is enough like the D70 that I still like it. The change in weight distribution as well as the mild trimming of the bulk matches the grip change; it's more subtle than the change made by Canon as they went from the Digital Rebel to the Digital Rebel XT, which left the otherwise excellent XT with an anemic grip.

Diopter dial. Now in a far better location for easy adjustment.

Speaking of grips, consumers will be able to purchase a Nikon-branded battery grip for the D80, which was unavailable for the D70. The MD-80 vertical grip/battery pack will be compatible with two EN EL-3e batteries (no EN EL-3), or six AA batteries. Price for the MD-80 is expected to be around $166.

Silhouette. When I first saw Nikon's teaser ads for the D80, which went up 20 days before the announcement date, I thought the silhouette looked a lot like a close competitor: the Canon 30D. From the fall of the shoulders to the height of the pentaprism mound, they're remarkably similar. After looking at the two cameras side-by-side from the back, the location of the diopter adjustment wheel helps complete the impression. It's a far better location for the diopter adjustment, by the way, appearing here on every mid-range Canon digital SLR since the original D30, as well as the Digital Rebels. On the D100 and D70 models, the diopter control was a vertical slider nestled behind the viewfinder's rubber eyepiece, requiring removal of the eyepiece to adjust the slider. Whether this is imitation of a good design or just the most natural place for diopter control, Nikon D200 owners will feel right at home. I think it's safe to say that the silhouette similarity is just a coincidence, however noticeable to my eye (after all, saying one SLR looks like another is like complaining that all sedans look alike).


Just a trim: Side-by-side the differences seem dramatic, but the D70 was big by today's standards. The D80, on the left, trims the body down while maintaining a healthy heft.

Where the D70 bulged out in the back, left, and front, the D80 has been tapered and flattened. The D80 is shorter left to right, contributing to the balance equation. While the D70 was excellent in its day, it now seems bulky compared to more recent competitors that are smaller and yet higher resolution. The D80 brings Nikon's mid-range digital SLR into compliance with the industry trend toward smaller bodies with bigger LCDs. The overall impression is one of greater quality than the Nikon D70. It feels more solid, and still big in terms of features and capability, yet it takes up less space and is easier to bring along.

Views and Displays. The 2.5 inch display from the Nikon D200 comes to the D80, but perhaps the best news is that the D200's bigger optical viewfinder has also been brought along, with a 0.94x magnification, a welcome relief to the eyes. As a result, you'll squint less when composing images and adjusting menu settings, and be able to show off your pictures more dramatically than before. The greater magnification to the optical viewfinder really does make a big difference, and the large LCD is beautiful.

One complaint I've had about other Nikons that I must repeat, however, is about the large "screen protector" that comes standard with all Nikon digital SLRs. I shot with it in place, since I think most users will; but I found that the extra glare introduced from the two additional optical surfaces made me misjudge the resulting images, and I was inclined to make adjustments that I didn't need. I've never scratched an LCD display on an SLR, so I will always remove these covers. But those who wear their SLRs around their necks should leave the screen cover in place to avoid scratching the LCD surface with their shirt buttons. The good news is that screen covers are optional on Nikon digital SLRs, but there's no place to mount them on the competition.

The Nikon D80's Status LCD display on the top deck is largely the same, not as big as the monstrous display on the D200, but it's a little wider left to right and a little narrower top to bottom. The illumination button for the Status LCD has been moved from just right of the LCD to the power switch surrounding the shutter button.

Speaking of buttons. Controls on the Nikon D80 will be familiar to most Nikon users, but some functions have been moved around. The White Balance and ISO buttons on the left side of the camera's back have been swapped, for example. The delete button (a trash can icon) has been moved from the lower left corner of the LCD display to the upper left where the Bracket and Drive Mode buttons were on the D70. The Bracket button (BKT) has been moved to the left of the lens on the front of the camera, just under the Flash button, oddly. And button position on the top deck has been refined, for the better, I think. In place of the Status LCD illumination button are the Drive mode and AF mode buttons. Pressing either button cycles through the available modes, changing the icons and words on the Status LCD.

One of the few contributions from the Nikon D50 to the D80 is the AF-A mode, which automatically switches from AF-S (single autofocus) to AF-C (continuous autofocus) if subject movement is detected. This feature has been on Canon digital SLRs for some time, and is welcome on the D80.

Finally, a Function button has been added to the D80, which appears between the grip and lens. This arrangement will cause a little confusion for D200 users, because this is where the DOF button resides on the D200, with the Function button beneath it; but D80-only users will be happy to have such easy access to this reprogrammable button, which can be used to for a number of different functions, like quickly turning on the framing grid, or switching temporarily to spot metering mode.

SD, SDHC support. The Nikon D80 is one of the first electronic devices to support the new SDHC standard, which will handle up to 32GB.

Memory shift. Looks like the days of CompactFlash are numbered, at least in consumer cameras. The D80 uses both SD and the new SDHC (High Capacity) cards. The SD standard only allowed up to 2GB capacity, but the new SDHC standard will allow up to 32GB. (That should be plenty for the next year or so--maybe.) That makes the D80 a great upgrade for D50 owners, which also uses SD, but not so great for D70 and D200 owners who want a second camera and want to use their existing cards. More peripherals are compatible with SD these days, though, so I suppose the move was inevitable. Perhaps the best news about SD is that it uses only 10 contacts, which are less prone to damage than the CompactFlash's array of 50 straight pins, which can bend in certain circumstances. Unlike other Nikon memory door arrangements, the D80 is no-nonsense: just slide the door toward the back and it swings open toward the front. Press down on the card and it pops up for easier removal.

Sensor. Not only did the camera get smaller while the LCD and viewfinder got bigger, the pixel count went from 6.1 megapixels on the D70s to 10.2 megapixels on the D80. This is the same basic number of pixels as are in the D200, but the sensor isn't identical. They're both CCD, but the difference, as far as we know at this date, has mostly to do with readout speed. The D200 has a four-channel data readout, while the Nikon D80 has only a two-channel readout. This means data can't be read off the sensor as quickly, hence the difference in maximum frame rate: the D80 is limited to three frames per second and the D200 can capture up to five. Put another way, the D80 sensor's speed is matched to the shutter's ability, and delivers more pixels at a lower price than its bigger brethren, the D200 and D2X.

Turn it up: Just a quarter turn takes you from very wide to a very tight 7x magnification. This combination of lens and camera really does turn up the heat on the competition.

Kit lens. The D70's 18-70mm kit lens was unusually excellent for a kit lens when it debuted. But the D80's kit lens adds unprecedented versatility to the excellence equation, with a focal length of 18-135mm, equivalent to a 27-202.5mm lens on a 35mm camera. It used to take two lenses to cover this range, but now a single, relatively small lens covers the entire range of 7.5x. I think 10x gives most users just what they want in terms of capturing all that their mind's eye can conceive without a lens, but 7.5x is pretty close. Sure, it would be better optically to have the excellent 18-200mm VR lens, but that weighs more and costs several hundred dollars more than this new kit lens. Build quality of the 18-135 is very tight, and it's only a little longer than the 18-70mm.

Far reaching. The D80's kit lens completes a compelling package that is currently unrivaled at this price point.

This non-cheap kit lens has a long list of fine features, including ED glass, a silent wave motor (SWM), digital-specific design (DX), a rounded seven-blade diaphragm for smoother bokeh, manual adjustment after AF in AF-S mode, and it focuses as close as 17.7 inches (45cm) regardless of zoom position. Add a non-rotating front element and an included lens hood, and you have quite a lot for the effective $300 price when purchased with the camera.

Flash. X-sync speed has been reduced from 1/500 on the D70 to 1/200 second on the Nikon D80. However, the D80's master flash control capabilities have been markedly improved, with an expanded Commander mode. Whereas the D70 could only control one group of remote or slave flashes using its built-in strobe, and couldn't add its own flash to the exposure, the Nikon D80 can control up to two groups of SB-800 and SB-600 flashes in addition to contributing to the scene. With the addition of an SB-800 flash, the D80's capabilities increase to controlling up to three groups of flashes independently, and also allows fill flash sync at up to 1/8000 second.

Slight reshuffle. Swapping the White balance and ISO buttons allowed the zoom out button to maintain its ability to zoom out to a thumbnail view, while joining the Zoom in button in a more logical position.

In short, the D80 has more complete access to Nikon's Creative Lighting system than any of Nikon's consumer-level cameras to date. See the Flash section under the Exposure tab for more on the improved flash capabilities in the D80.

Shooting. Our experience with the D80 prototype model left us quite impressed, and additional time with a production sample did nothing to change our minds. The camera was nimble. Controls were well placed and familiar, and the menu usually presented what I needed on the first screen. The camera's trimmer figure made it easier in the hand than the bulkier D70, and its soft shutter sound drew less attention, so I felt a little more stealthy than I do with some digital SLRs. The 18-135mm zoom is relatively short when retracted, but zooms to its full 135mm with just a quarter turn, offering excellent speed for candid photography.

Candids become even more fun when you have confidence that your camera is getting what you want, and the large LCD helps build that confidence (though more so without the screen cover in place). Zooming in on captured images is now as easy as pressing the big QUAL/Zoom button on the lower left of the screen repeatedly. You're able to check focus in seconds, then zoom back out with the button above it (ISO/Zoom out) and check the next shot.

I really like that Nikon moved the AF and Capture mode buttons to the top deck just right of the LCD. Continuous mode used to be on the back beneath the mode dial, but this positioning makes a lot more sense, because I can be looking at the Status LCD as I watch the setting change. AF mode used to be limited to a menu item where you could switch between AF-Single and AF-Continuous, but it's such a common item it really should be adjustable via a button within sight of the Status LCD, and now on the D80 it is. Pressing the button cycles through three options instead of two, including AF-A, which detects subject motion and changes from AF-Single to AF-Continuous when something starts moving. I found that particularly beneficial in an amusement park, where there's an assortment of subjects that change from static to dynamic at random. For shots where I figured the camera would guess wrong, I switched it back to Single or Continuous with a few presses of the AF button.

Top deck. Simple button additions and relocations make on-the-fly adjustments much easier. Particularly welcome is the AF mode button.

The large viewfinder and 11-point AF system made composing images easier, and it seems Nikon has made the LCD/LED arrangement a little brighter; at least I didn't run into the normal trouble I have in half-light detecting the selected AF point. The Nikon D80 made all the necessary AF decisions very quickly, which allowed me the versatility to take the shot or else release and half-press the shutter again for another pass. The D80 would always choose the center point on that second pass, which I could use if I wasn't happy with its first AF point selection. The Nikon representative told me that was a feature designed into the D80. I'm curious to see whether it will make it into the production unit, because it seems like a good idea.

The production sample we ultimately received didn't seem to offer this return-to-center behavior, or the subjects we were pointing the camera at had more dominant/obvious areas of interest close to the center of the frame. When faced with subject elements all at close to the same focal distance though, it would frequently choose slightly different sets of AF points on successive actuations. We also found that we could get the camera to focus on a subject closer to the camera that was more on the edge of the frame just by slightly moving the frame towards that subject a little. This was sometimes handy for getting the camera to select an off-center subject for its AF, but I personally prefer to manually select AF points in such situations.

On that bright, HOT, summer day, I found I needed to use fill flash a lot, and the onboard flash was happy to oblige. I just pressed the flash button on the left side of the lens housing and turned the front mode dial. Here's where the screen protector induced more adjustments than were necessary, which I didn't find out until I got back to the computer.

I also liked the Nikon D80's Auto ISO mode, which is available in most modes, not just Full Auto. Not only is that unusual for an SLR at this level, you can set a threshold shutter speed for it to activate, and also limit how high it will automatically adjust the camera if the required shutter speed goes below, say, 1/40 second. That's smart use of digital technology.

Modes. The Nikon D80 has the usual complement of scene modes, called Vari-program settings, but I seldom use them on any camera, save for night modes. You can also bias the color settings in a number of ways, and even take multiple exposures; but the best addition to the D80 is its more comprehensive Black & White modes. Like other leading SLRs, the Nikon D80 can simulate a number of common filters that are traditionally used with black and white film. While reviewing these modes, it would have been nicer if the settings weren't buried so deeply in the menu, but once you know what effect you're looking for, you won't mind so much. Like other offerings from Canon and Olympus, you can also tint the images you capture.

Taking it further. But unlike the Canon and Olympus digital SLRs, you can do more than just tint the images or apply a filter before you capture. You can tint them post-capture, and do a whole lot more.

Post-capture image editing, available via the new Retouch Menu, is limited to one adjustment per type of adjustment, but can include a combination of tinting and cropping, for example. Other options include several Coolpix favorites, like D-lighting, to improve shadow and highlight detail, and heretofore-unaddressed essentials like Red-eye correction are now possible in the camera. Changes are not applied to the original image, so you can make several versions with different changes to see what you like, and still have the original to edit later on the computer. You can also combine two images with Image overlay, a feature that first appeared on the D2X.

Color balance is among the more interesting filters (skipping right past Skylight and Warm filter). While Nikon didn't put this tool to use like Canon does to set and bracket white balance, they did put it here where you can fix images post-capture using the two-axis color chart. Regrettably, you can't use the resulting settings to set a white balance once you've achieved it. Could be patents, perhaps, but the Color balance filter is quite useful to fix a worthy shot if you forgot to set the proper white balance; then you can go back and use the conventional tools to white balance the shot properly.

Slideshows. Another Coolpix feature to make the jump to the Nikon D80 is the more elaborate Pictmotion Slideshow, which can include music in the mix. The music selection is limited to a handful of well-known songs. It's good they're well known, too, because you can't actually hear the music you've chosen from the D80 as the camera has no built-in speaker; but hook it up to a TV via the included AV cable, and you'll have nice musical accompaniment to your effects-driven slideshow. While this functionality falls under the "nice but non-essential" category, it begs the question why more cool features that have grown up in the digital all-in-one camera aren't included on today's crop of digital SLRs. Nikon has thrown down, so we'll see if the other majors will have time to react to this consumer-friendly move for the upcoming holiday season. Even if the consumer never uses any of it, it'll wow them at the sales counter for sure. Maybe the next version will include that speaker they're missing to complete the package.

More time. Shooting with the Nikon D80 was a blast. I didn't want to put it down, but time constraints limited my experience with the prototype. Now that I've had more time with a production sample of the D80, I'm even more impressed.

My first impression was that I was pleasantly surprised by the Nikon D80's easy nature. "Easy" doesn't really do justice considering the depths you can explore with the D80 if you want to, but I'm referring more to its ability to reach out and get the picture you want in the way that you want it. Even after just a few minutes, I quickly felt comfortable and could concentrate on composition while exploring the special features, with none of the awkwardness that usually accompanies complicated new SLRs. (This is particularly impressive, given that I've historically been a Canon shooter, so am much more familiar with Canon controls and operating details than those of Nikon cameras.)

Nikon has hit on the right combination of camera capabilities and zoom range, to the extent that I'd call the Nikon D80 a near-ideal camera. I'm not sure the competition could have seen this one coming, especially the ground-breaking inclusion of a very good quality 7.5x zoom. Add a bigger viewfinder, more integrated access to the Nikon Creative Lighting System, a 10.2 megapixel sensor, excellent image quality, very fast performance, and some of the best enhancements from the Coolpix line, and Nikon has another potential runaway best seller on its hands.

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